chippy

I an using a Nikon D90 and want to use some non-autofocus lens with it, in normal and reversed modes

My problem is that my eyesight is not as good as years ago with a Pentax manual camera BUT with a focussing aid in

the veiwfinder I have no difficulty.Can I put the Nikon into a mode that will indicate best focus point?

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

If you don't have a manual for the D90, download one from the Nikon web site.

Page 9 shows where the focus indicator is located in the viewfinder. Pages 38 and 60 describe how to use the focus indicator. Pages 229 and 230 list various compatible Nikon lenses (230 has non-CPU lenses); and while that may not directly help with any non-Nikon lenses you might intend on using, it is a good indication of what will work (virtually any lens with a Nikon F mount).

Note that a potentially even bigger problem might be metering with some older lenses. The easy (and by far the most superior way) around that is to use the histogram and highlight display. See pages 130-131, and to get the histogram display you first need to enable it as described on page 163.

chippy

thanks for the information......kind of you to go to so much trouble.........much appreciated

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

There should be a round, green disk that appears in the bottom left of the viewfinder when you have focus. There will be left and right arrows telling you which way to turn the lens. Then the green disk appears when it's just right. It makes manual focus much easier. Use this with a single, center focusing point.

chippy

Thank you. I will look more carefully.......I tend to look through the veiwfinder without concentrating on the edges.

I will definitely look round the edges next time

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I use older manual focus lenses often with my DSLR's. AS has been mentioned, you can use them, but the camera functions will be limited. As Apaflo mentioned, your camera will not meter with the older lenses. That doesn't mean you can'y get images, just that they will require a bit more work on your part. I used to use an old Nikon D70s, which the D80 & then the D90 replaced. It also would not meter with manual focus lenses. I would use the old "Sunny 16" rule to get in the ballpark for exposure & then fine tune using the LCD & Histogram. Not the best way to capture fast action subjects but fine for macro, landscapes & portraits. A big problem is focusing. Yes the camera has an electronic rangefinder in it where focus confirmation is "confirmed" by the green dot, but I never used it. Modern DSLR's are hard to nail focus on manually as they have a focus screen that is optimized for AF lenses. Gone are split image rangefinder & micro-prisms to aid in focusing. You can buy replacement screens that have those features. I bought & installed one in my old D70s. Nikon also sells a DK-21 ? viewfinder magnifier which may help. I use speedlights a lot and that helps with exposure. Not sure if they work on the camera using auto modes as I use mine entirely in manual, both the camera & the flash. Then again, I shoot a lot of macro, so it's easier to use external flash units.

chippy

That is a good idea, I have an old eyepiece magifier tucked away, I will dig it out and try it,.perhaps a jeweller's loupe will help.

I have speedlite and also a ringflash. One thing that I will have to remember is that, unlike film, it doesnt cost anything to try and the results are almost

instantly veiwable. I wonder if using such a setup in "tethered" mode with a high res laptop screen might be the way to go with macro.

thanks for your advice.........much appreciated

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Be careful with older flash units. Some have high trigger voltages that will fry your cameras electronics. I use many older lenses & ring lights & speed lights as I do a lot of macro. That said, I've been at this for awhile & learned from doing lots of research first. Take a gander at my Flickr page (link below). most all of those images were taken with a mid 1980's macro lens & matching ring/point light.

wj cody Loc: springfield illinois

i fully agree with you on using older flash units. i really would avoid them, as the new ones are dedicated for use on the specific body. older ones have been known to fry the electronics in the body, and you surely don't want that to happen!

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I shoot Canon gear and not modern Nikon stuff, so it may be called something different, but....

The little green LED is called "Focus Confirmation" and lights up when focus is achieved. (Canon cameras don't have the arrows that Nikon cameras do.)

Focus Confirmation also might cause the AF point to flash red. (It did on my older Canon, but not on newer models with "active matrix, transmissive LCD focus screens).

Focus Confirmation also might optionally be able to give you an audible "beep". On my Canon, that can be turned on and off.

But, at least on my Canon, Focus Confirmation only works on One Shot mode. It's probably called something different by Nikon, but is the focus mode that achieves focus, then stops and locks. It is used with stationary subjects... not with moving ones. Focus Confirmation does not work in AI Servo focus mode, which is continuous focus, never stops and locks... intended for use tracking moving subjects. Since AI Servo doesn't stop and lock, there is nothing to confirm.

Canon's Focus Confirmation works fine with vintage, manual focus lenses.

However, to enable it on Canon cameras you first need to install a modern, auto focus lens on the camera, set the camera to One Shot and choose a focus pattern (all points or single point, on the simpler cameras... or other patterns on some of the more advanced models). Then remove the AF lens from the camera, replace it with the vintage one and Focus Confirmation will work as usual.

I suspect Nikon are pretty much the same... just call the features, modes and functions something different.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Eyepiece magnifier is one way to go. An Angle Finder also might provide magnification (one I use has 1.25X and 2.5X settings). Jeweller's loupe? I kinda doubt that would work.

Does the D90 have Live View? If so, that's another thing that might work and can be really helpful with low angle macro, especially if the camera's LCD screen is articulated.

Yes, another approach is to tether the camera to a computer.... laptop or pad might be convenient outdoors. I doubt the D90 can, but some newer models with WiFi can do similar with a smart phone... or wirelessly with a pad computer. I don't know about the D90 in particular.... But if it has Live View and a mini-USB socket, it likely can be used tethered to a computer.

There also are auxiliary LCD screens you can buy, that attach to the camera and display whatever is in the viewfinder on a larger LCD screen... commonly used for video, but there's no reason someone couldn't use them for still photos, too. The screens are typically 5" or larger. These aren't cheap (but neither is a pad computer, laptop or smart phone).

I agree about using some caution with older flash units. Do some research, both about your particular flashes' trigger voltage and how high a voltage the D90 can tolerate (search online for info and/or for manuals you can download).

Some older flashes triggered around 400 volts! No problem with older, mostly mechanical cameras. However, some of the later film SLRs and a lot of the earlier DSLRs couldn't tolerate such high voltage. Some of them weren't rated for more than about 24 volts!

Fortunately, later DSLRs have been improved, with more shielding and protection for internal circuits, and most can tolerate up to 250 volts. Many of the older flashes are usable, without concern. But, you still should check both your particular flashes and your camera's trigger voltage tolerance.

Even if you find there's a mismatch.. all is not lost. There are isolators that can be used, so that the camera won't be fried by too-high trigger voltage from the flash. Wein SafeSync is one that comes to mind, but there are various others.

sinatraman Loc: Vero Beach Florida, Earth,alpha quaudrant

be sure your manual lenses are AI and up non ai lenses can damage your camera. Only the df of all the Nikon dslr's can use non ai

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Wrong. The base models (D3xxx, D5xxx D40/x, D60) can use them without fear of damaging the camera. That said, there are more limitation on their use on these base models

chippy

Thanks folks, you have given me a lot to think about, my flash guns are quite recent so low voltage. I will investigate "tethering". Mini USB socket is available

also live veiw so I have lots of options available to me. I will dig out my tripod and find some subject material

jsmangis Loc: Peoria, IL

I have used my 50mm f1:1.4 Ais manual focus Nikkor on my D80 and my D610. In both cases the focus indicator light in the viewfinder told me when focus was achieved. Of course I had to shoot in full manual, setting the shutter speed with the dial on the camera and using the ring on the lens to set the aperture, but I was able to get great images with this mashup of old and new technology. The metering wasn't perfect, but the screen on the back of the camera does give you instant feedback, so go for it!