theehmann

Thanks so much. This sounds so similar to my issue.

DanCulleton

The a different lens and try using a single focus point (that you select).

CatMarley Loc: North Carolina

Could tell a lot more if I had the full size file to look at, but it looks like both are fuzzy. Try another lens - rent or borrow a 20 mm prime, shoot at f8 - f11, both hand held and on a tripod. The results should tell you whether it is the camera, the lens, or motion blur.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

I had the same issue with my Tamron 28-300. I sent them images I shot in a very controlled environment using my 5D M3, and comparing the shots to ones taken with my canon 28-300. Tamron kept my lens for about a month, testing it on both the 5D and the 1D, which I also have. It's better. It's not Canon glass, but it's better than before.

Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA

whitewolfowner

Your lens is a very wide range zoom and they are notoriously soft at the long end. That's the compromise for the huge range. If you want better results you need to get a smaller zoom range or even better a prime lens. There's a reason the better glass costs so much.

wattsimages

Couple questions
Are you shooting at a high ISO and using in camera noise reduction?
Are these un-cropped?

I would use a tripod, lowest iso, no in camera adjustments. if the images still look soft then borrow a sharp lens and try again. if it is the lens then...

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/refurbished-camera-lenses/af-s-dx-nikkor-35mm-f1.8g-refurbished.html

http://www.dxomark.com/Reviews/Best-lenses-for-the-24-Mpix-Nikon-D7100-Wide-angle-and-primes-and-zooms/Best-wide-and-ultra-angle-primes-for-the-D7100

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Are you using a "protective" filter on the front of lens?? If so, Remove it and test again.

Can you "lens fine tune" / test for it ??

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Do you have a "protection" filter on the lens? If so, try again without it.

18-270mm lens? Most "do everything" zooms don't do anything particularly well. They are convenient, yes. But often compromise in other respects. I do not know that lens, so can't say one way or another how sharp it is. But there might be better choices available. Many landscape shots call for a wide angle lens (which also have inherently deep depth of field, too... see the next item)... 8-16mm, 10-20mm, 10-24mm, 10-28mm, 11-20mm and 12-24mm are some of the truly wide angle lenses available for a DX camera such as yours. 18mm ain't bad... but it's only moderately wide on a DX camera.

What apertures are you using? If using larger apertures and telephoto focal lengths, you might be seeing shallow depth of field effects, where part of the image is out of focus. On the other hand, if using really small apertures (such as f16 or f22), you'll see an optical effect called "diffraction" robbing some of the fine detail from your images, which can make them look a little soft.

What shutter speeds are you using? Camera shake can cause image softness, too. At certain shutter speed even the internal vibrations caused by the mirror flipping up out of the way can make for softer images.

Hand in hand with that, are you using a tripod? If so, is it a decently steady and sturdy one? A lot of landscape shooters use tripods for most of their shots. They'll also use mirror lockup and remote releases (or the camera's self timer delay) to prevent vibrations and movement. A lot of landscape shooters also use Live View and a tethered display (maybe wired or wireless) such as a tablet to closely preview their shot.

Have you cleaned the camera's sensor recently? Dust and smudges on a sensor will reduce resolution and image quality, too.

Finally, how are you judging your images? If you are looking at them at 100% or greater magnification on your computer monitor, well that's like making a 5 foot wide print and viewing it from a 18 or 20" away... of course it looks like crap! Are you planning to print 5 foot wide? Sure, when retouching an image it's often useful to use a high magnification. But when evaluating it for sharpness and even focus accuracy, it usually makes more sense to back off to 33 or 25%... or whatever magnification renders the image pretty close to its intended size on your computer monitor. Also, most computer monitors aren't nearly as sharp or able to display as much fine detail as a print done with a quality printer on smooth, matte paper will show.

All that the techs at Nikon and Tamron can do is calibrate focus accuracy and check a lens for de-centered elements or other flaws. They can't do anything about other factors such as your technique or the limitations of the lens or camera themselves. I don't know if D7000 has micro focus adjustment... but if it does, used properly that can do much of what the techs could have done. (BTW, if you sent the camera alone to Nikon and the lens alone to Tamron.... that doesn't necessarily mean that they are fully calibrated together... and MFA might help to some extent.)

But, if your images are overall soft... not sharp and in focus anywhere.... all the calibration and adjustments in the world may not help. It's something else... a crappy filter, less than ideal lens, poor technique, camera shake, dirty sensor, etc.... causing the problem.

theehmann

Great response. Many thanks.

whitewolfowner

Having a filter on the lens has no effect on sharpness n any way form or fashion, so ignore those who tout this bull!

Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI

I have no experience with the Tamy 18-270, but I have and love my D7000, it is awesome. Love it so much I kept it when I bought a D7200. Tele on one wide angle to short tele on the other. Great combo, and no changing lenses.

Duane

theehmann

Duane, exactly what do you have?

Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI

My equipment is listed at the bottom of my post.

Duane

dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

, great camera.