Thank you for your sage advice imagemeister...
It is a breath of fresh air amongst the thoughtless regurgitation of other "Tribe" members that dominate UHH.

To the OP: In my experience if a lens was actually designed for film cameras and you are deploying it on a DSLR you would be wise to test it with the camera lock down on a tripod in "LiveView" with a timed release.
In essence LiveView Tripod Mode (Nikon) is actually no different than shooting with a mirrorless camera, if your results in LiveView match your normal focus paradigm (I'm assuming C (Continuous Focus)) then you're likely good (but a mirror box on a DSLR can be off (it happens) thus sometimes one edge is slightly more in focus.
However since the lens in question is a wide angle it is unlikely that you could detect any variations of focus

Please enjoy you journey to the Swiss country... I believe it is still a conflict free zone.

You call it ignorance,
I call it lack of being obsessed.

I guess it depends which side of the fence one is on.

HI FOLKS - I have never really done any BIF, my cameras are Nkion's a 7200 & 850 , , the back property line at my sons house - is a stream about 1/2 between a local lake & The Kennebec River that empties to the ocean. My son is going to advise me when the alewives are running ....... he ends up with adult & immature eagles & osprey on the hunt & fighting for territory or fish ... when this happens....... we will see if the old man can get a few images

is my Tammron 150 -600 too much zoom to find the action in the viewfinder & get an image ........ I am guessing I will be glad this is digital.......... back in film days a lot would be trashed.

yes I have other lenses ....

Thank you for the tips & suggestions ....... I also better remember bug dope- ticks....

Skylanergpilot.

You're defining "perfect" as the exposure for the JPEG. I define "perfect" as the best possible exposure for the sensor. Your experience with ETTR I suspect was with JPEGs? Our cameras are engineered with built-in highlight protection to back up the image processor that creates the JPEG. When you get your "perfect" JPEG exposure (varies by make/model) your camera has left a percentage of the sensor's capacity unused -- as much as half or more. Increased sensor exposure up to the sensor's exposure limit = better SNR, better DR and better overall image quality. In easy light and your typical vacation photo you can pass on getting the best SNR and DR possible with little to no visible loss especially for casual use.

But you are choosing to start with less and in more difficult lighting like extreme high contrast or backlit conditions your upfront choice to give up half or more of the sensor's potential can make a big difference. Imagemeister just said he'd give up the sky in the photo I posted. He'd have to shooting JPEG. Or he'd use his camera's HDR function. My camera has that function too. I never use it because it's just more unnecessary work especially with post processing and you're still getting less by processing the JPEG. JPEG shooters choose less to start with. Works for a large bulk of what you shoot -- great. But your choice to start with less will stop you from taking the photos that I continue to take with no additional effort.

I was out this morning with my camera and the first photo I took was of the municipal airport. Camera JPEG is below my photo. JPEG sky is nuked to h*ll. Just do like Imagemeister and give it up; you're shooting JPEG so having less is more right? If you wanted that sky in your JPEG you'd have to expose less. You would get less DR and lower SNR and still a really crappy looking JPEG that you'd have to post process which would take you longer to do, require more skill and you'd still wind up with a lesser quality image. I much prefer doing less work and easier work and getting more.