That is the real question you should be asking. But keep in mind there is no single answer. If I'm taking a personal photo at a family event, and the end output is likely Fasebook, that will be significantly different than a 6' wide print for an architect that is going to put his nose against the print.
my opinion is, if someone's paying me, I'm going to view it at 100%. If it's personal, then I have to decide what the end product is going to look like, then determine if it's sharp enough to be a keeper.

Every step of the process should be focused on the end result, including the culling.

you're right of course, also depending on what lens are using, field curvature can cause your photos to be out of focus. The plane of focus of the lens is never going to be perfectly flat (although good ones get very close). Combine that with many lenses having soft edges at their maximum aperture, and you can see where r-c can cause issues. In the end all you can do is understand your equipment and how it reacts to this technique.

I want to be upfront and say that I don't own this camera, but I do believe that you are right, 4K is the issue. What's funny is everyone is yelling and screaming about Sony's overheating, but you could do a search of any manufacture and find this issue popping up. Just Google Canon overheating and you will see what I mean.

Sending it back to Sony may be the right answer (but i doubt it). Keep in mind that the overheating is a known issue. Many cameras and camera brands suffer from it, especially when shooting 4k video.

Cramming 4K video into such a small package has major drawbacks, overheating is just one, battery life is another. Isn't this the smallest camera made that will record internally 4K? If you want something that is better at shooting 4k you're going to have to get a larger camera.

I guess what I am getting at is that it's not the camera's fault, it's Sony's fault for not doing a better job of explaining the limitations.

All lens manufacturers have a few good quality lenses in their stable. But understanding what type of photography are going to be doing is important. If landscapes are you were main focus, you have a little more flexibility. However if you're going to be taking pictures of buildings you might be most interested in low distortion...

I would recommend you focus on low distortion for your interior photos. A lens with low distortion will help your interior pictures, and won't hurt your landscape photos. This means you're going to look for a lens review site that is more scientific/technical in their review (Not KR).

http://diglloyd.com/gear.html
http://www.cameralabs.com/
http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/overview
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?
http://www.dxomark.com/lenses/launched-between-1987-and-2016#hideAdvancedOptions=false&viewMode=list&yDataType=global

I have a little experience with a couple open wide lenses. Using a 5DIII we found the Sigma 12 - 24 good for interior architectural shots. There is distortion, however if you are careful it can be dealt with. Currently we're selling this lens because our Canon shooter upgraded to the 5DSr. The main reason for upgrading is Clients wanted very large prints. The combination of printing large, and the additional resolution of the 5DSr showed some softness, and lack of contrast that we hadn't really noticed before. now he is using the Canon 11 - 24 and that lens is very good.

If your main goal is night photography? I would recommend a 14mm 2.8, or maybe the new Sigma 20mm 1.4. the extra light that these lenses let in will help you keep your exposures short enough to stop start movement.

the solution is to shoot raw + JPEG. And if this shows up he can process the raw himself and eliminate the artifact.

:thumbup: Same here. And I commonly print for architects that are super picky about color.

:thumbup:
Also you may want to consider the cost of changing over your lenses to Canon.

Depends on your budget? And whether or not you need autofocus?

Oh yes, I'm sure people will read the thread, and disagree with you. But it's hard to deny that scientists with a agenda tend to slant their findings. Whether it's a scientist at a big factory saying that there emissions are not hurting water quality, or the scientists in the forest telling us that spotted owls only with an old trees.

It's only when the t***h comes out that the stuff in water is causing health issues, and that spotted owls have been found living in abandoned Kmart pylon signs. Now you and I both know that there's no such thing as an old-growth Kmart.

So here's the real issue. People on both sides of the argument have figured out that the only way they get any attention at all is to be an alarmist. Unfortunately our media regularly buys into this.

And to some extent I'm glad that there are people out there willing to do wh**ever it tacks to get their point across. I feel like there's a large percentage of our population that would still be dumping their trash in our national parks, pouring their used oil in the gutter, and so on. I'm not sure why but we seem to need a dire consequence before will do the right thing.

Personally I'm skeptical of both sides. I believe that oil companies are trying to restrict development of electric vehicles, and that environmentalists are using g****l w*****g to forward their agenda. Someday I hope to drive my electric car to dinner, where I have a big fat steak!

Welcome to digital. Like you I came from film, but I was an early adopter. The D700 was One of my favorites. the fact that it came out in 2008, and is still relevant today, is a testament to how good it really is.

Lots of good feedback in this thread. over the last 17 years I have had this happen maybe five or six times. In my experience it was the card. However as others have stated it could also be the card reader or some other disruption during transfer.

BUT ALL IS NOT LOST... quarantine the memory card, and get some recovery software. Even if you formatted the card many times you can still recover images. Recovery software is generally cheap or even free, it is good to have for these just in case moments.

Now for the bad news. If you've used this card and written over the sectors, recovery software won't work. Of course this won't help if the card itself is bad.

Apaflo Was correct. This is about the color space of the image you're uploading. I would recommend you shoot in raw + JPEG if you don't want to do much post processing that way you always have the raw in case you want to process it for a high-quality print. In the JPEG is easy for you to post online. But whatever you do make sure that you use sRGB for stuff you post on the web.

There is a lot of great information in this thread about "color space". however You don't need to get overly caught up in this. If you shoot raw, then convert to Jpg (SRGB) for posting on the Internet every thing should be fine.
What I'm getting at is, save the original raw file. You never know what you may want to do later. Whether it's additional postprocessing, or maybe even specialized printing. Saving the raw file is like saving the original negative.

And KR should be taken with a grain of salt. He has tons of very valuable information. But he is also known to say things that are simply ridiculous so that people will respond. For instance there was a time when he was saying that no one should shoot raw, and that JPEG was better. Another great example of this was when KR was a diehard Nikon fan, then he gets a deal (mostly speculation) and is suddenly saying "Canon is the best and Nikon is horrible", then the deal is over and he is back to Nikon is the best. with all of this rhetoric I'm sure his site traffic was through the roof, And that was probably the intent.
I am not saying that the information he provides is not of value, in fact he does provide some very good information. Like all of these review sites you need to not rely on one person's opinion.