What you are saying is absolutely correct, it's not that complicated. especially if you take the time to learn how the program works, and then set up your workflow the way Lightroom demands. Keep in mind though that not every photographer works the same way. I belong to and Adobe user group. Last year we brought in an expert to go over a lot of what you've described. In the end he admitted that he uses bridge to sort, organize, and pretty much to all of the "pre-work".

For me, lightroom is a nightmare. I found this out when CC updated bridge to 6.1, and ACR two 9.2. they were so full of bugs that they would not function. this forced me to use lightroom until they came up with a solution. Not only do I have my own images, I also have other photographers who bring me things to be retouched. Lightroom's requirement that things be imported before you work on them doesn't work for me.

Even if I didn't have others bringing me images, I would still use bridge (or photo mechanic) to organize my stuff before I imported it into lightroom.

It is understandable that someone at Adobe would believe that they know what's best for everyone. But even their expert uses bridge.

You're missing a big part of what these programs do. Digital asset management, should be a major consideration when looking at these. Photoshop uses a separate program called bridge to organize, and sort the photos.
Lightroom imports the photos for you, but it will take some getting used to.

Also, lightroom props you to backup your catalog (not the original raw file, just a JPEG). In bridge/Photoshop you have to remember what backup.

If you sign up for the $10 CC subscription, you can use both programs and figure out which one works for you. Also as others have pointed out don't discount the software that came with your camera.

I have the 24-120 f4, and the Sigma 24-105 Sony A mount. Nikkor is shorter, and lighter. It also has a little more reach. However the Sigma is sharper. The Sigma is also more metal, versus the Nikon has a lot of plastic. I couldn't tell you if one is made better than the other.
I originally purchased the Nikon after going to my local camera store and comparing 28-300, versus the 24-120. And that's what I would recommend you do. Bring your camera, take a few pictures, see which one focuses faster. Once you have them in your hand you can make a much better decision.

Architecture and people are great for photographing in the French qtr. There are also many very old graveyards, that are 100+ years old. And because of the shallow water table, many of the graves are mausoleums. We sure you bring a macro lens for some of the textures, and various things growing on the decaying marble.

One?
The guy at the camera store told me I needed 2. One for full frame and one for APSc.

HA...Don't forget the "Reverse Graduated ND". :-D

Bill is correct. Reciprocity factor in photography relates to film. in digital there is something similar caused by heat. on imaging sensor heat will increase noise, thereby affecting the signal to noise ratio. This can have a detrimental effect on the final image, but not so much the "exposure". In some cases heat just increases noise, in other cases it also reduces the dynamic range. Newer more modern sensors are less affected by heat, partially because of newer designs, and partially because of better filtering algorithms. So in other words a 30 minute exposure is one full stop more than a 15 minute exposure in digital. depending on what film are using, this would be much less than a stop.

And just like every film is affected by reciprocity differently, the same applies to digital. Some digital sensors\D to A processors, handle heat so well, that you really have to push them, before you start to see noise.

This is important. we need to emphasize the difference between exposure triangle and exposure compensation.

The exposure triangle is a way to demonstrate the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, ISO (the sensitivity of the photographic media, film or digital).

exposure compensation, has more to do with the way your camera meters a scene. Essentially the camera is metering the scene at a specific exposure, but you want to override that and raise or lower the exposure.
If the camera is set to a specific priority (Aperture or shutter) it holds that setting and adjusts one of the other two variables. So if you're in aperture priority it will hold aperture and adjust the shutter. Newer digital cameras can also be set so that the adjustment is made to ISO.

This is a way for you to decide if the camera's metering system is what you want. In other words if you're shooting into a strong back lit situation, you might want to "compensate" so that your subject is still expose properly.

I like it. :thumbup:

After owning several different readers, from SanDisk, Lexar, and many others.... I can tell you without a doubt the best (maybe just my favorite) is made by Hoodman. What I like best about this particular one is the cards sit deep in the reader. I feel like they are more secure, and less likely to bend the pin (CF cards). overall it just feels like it's better made with tighter tolerances even be SD cards seem to fit better.

If you've ever put a card in upside down you know of talking about. It's like it kind of goes in but stops partway... then you turn it over and still doesn't quite go in right... just need to push harder... I don't want to break it.

As far as speed? You'd have to look on the Internet. I know there are sites that have tested various readers and card speeds. however I would recommend you go with USB 3. it absolutely makes a difference.

:thumbup:

This is a good start, but there are ways you can improve your testing procedure. Change your target to something that has texture and details over the entire frame. Many times lens quality issues, and defects show up around the edges (outside the center of the frame). lens decentering, and CA, are typically not as pronounced in the center.

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/11/how-to-test-a-lens

I like the color, but it may just be the BW conversion. Maybe too much contrast??

Would you be willing to post a "small" version of it and let others try there own BW treatment?

You I would agree with CHOLLY, investigate upgrades to your iMac. This will not only help you process your images, but it could make everything you do on your computer better. More RAM, and an SSD are good places to start. Unfortunately many iMacs are hard to upgrade. That doesn't mean they can't upgrade, just that you need special tools to do it. If you're not mechanically inclined I would let a professional do it for you. Also you might consider a refurbished iMac from Apple. I have bought a couple off of their website, with good results.

http://eshop.macsales.com/

http://www.apple.com/shop/browse/home/specialdeals

Now you can sell your old lens on Ebay for $100, and reduce the cost even more.